Lutz Huelle RTW Spring 2021

Titled “Le Pyjama Rose,” Lutz Huelle’s spring presentation film showed his pieces on women of various body types, styles and ages. The designs grew out of an extended period of inactivity, he explained, in a FaceTime call.

“It almost seemed obscene thinking about fashion with people being in so much pain — it took me a month of thinking,” said Huelle, recalling his struggle to find purpose in work at the beginning of the lockdown period.

“And then I realized, I have to start where I am and the first thing I looked at was the pyjama,” he said, popping out of his seat to grab his latest creation. Wow! The screen went pink — hot pink. Here was the star of the lineup, a pair of pyjamas made of a silky viscose — “you can put it in the machine, you can use it forever.” He wanted the ensemble to make people feel good lounging about the house, but also be able to wear it outside, even to go dancing, when such activities resume. Along a similar vein, Huelle constructed a pouffy-sleeved housecoat, made of taffeta, and he demonstrated how the scrunched sleeves could be fluffed up with a tug.

Lutz Huelle RTW Spring 2021

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Pushing deeper with his home-dressing exploration, Huelle stuck to his aim of keeping the collection simple. T-shirt dresses carried a ring of taffeta at the bottom, silk satin blouses and dresses were loose and rearrangeable; pulled open in front to show more skin, or pushed back, covering the front for a more demure attitude. He steered clear of lockdown cliches — no more jogging pants, please — and avoided jeans, although he did take his scissors to a jean jacket, cutting it apart to insert a cinchable waist, transforming the silhouette into something dressier, Fifties-style.

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